Palma-Mai 2011
Jeden Morgen sah ich bis zu vier Kreutzfahrtschiffe im Hafen von Palma liegen. Ich war also gespannt, was mich in der Altstadt von Palma erwarten würde und startete dementsprechend früh.
Vom Hafen aus kommend, ging ich zunächst die Avinguda Argentina ein Stück hoch, überquerte dann einen kleinen offensichtlich kanalisierten Fluß, den Torrent Sa Riera und tauchte dann in die Altstadt ein. So relativ früh am Tag war es noch relativ ruhig. in dem engen Gassengewirr war es dank der hohen Häuser zu dieser Stunde angenehm kühl. Immer wieder eröffneten sich Durchblicke durch die langen Strassen und gaben interessante Perspektiven frei.
Irgendwann eröffnete sich bei meiner Bummelei der Blick auf die Placa de la Reina. Ich setzte mich in ein Cafe und beobachtete das Treiben um mich herum. Überall gingen die Leute zur Arbeit. Noch hatten die Mallorquiner die Oberhand. Die Kreutzfahrer waren offensichtlich noch beim Frühstück.
Auf meinem weiteren Weg mit der groben Ausrichtung Ausrichtung Placa Major sah ich Cafes , Restaurants, die noch geschlossen hatten und einige schöne Geschäfte.
Je näher ich der erhöht liegenden Placa Major kam, um so exclusiver wurden die Geschäfte. Ich ging in die Eglesia Santa Eulalia, eine gotische Kirche mit drei Schiffen-eine der ersten Kirchen nach der katalanischen Eroberung. Dort waren außer mir noch ungefähr hundert Niederländer. Die Liner hatten ihre Ladung offensichtlich ins Freie entlassen. Und so beschloß ich weiter zu ziehen. Auf der Placa de Major holte mich der Tourismus dann endgültig ein. Gaukler und Puppenspieler und zwei große Cafe’s, die jeden, der die magische Grenze von 10 Metern unterschritt, attackierten und das jeweilige Angebot des Tages aufdrängten. Nach dem schönen ruhigen Morgen hatte mich nun der allgegenwärtige Massentourismus mit all‘ seinen Abartigkeiten eingeholt und ich beschloß , mir den Palau de s’Almudia und die Kathedrale Sa Seu zu ersparen. Ich wandte mich stattdessen dem Passeig la Rambla mit seinen Blumenständen zu. Ich hatte ein Ziel: ich bog nach rechts in die A.d. Port Jesus ein und befand mich kurze Zeit später vor dem „Cellar sa Premsa“auf der Placa Bisbe Berenquer.
In diesem Restaurant mit noch weitgehend mallorquinischer Küche war es um 13:30 Uhr noch recht ruhig, obwohl es inzwischen sicher vielen Touristen bekannt ist. Beim Menue de Dia konnte man vielfältig auswählen. Zu meinem als Vorspeise gewählten gemischtem Salat gab es eine erstklassige Roquefort-Sauce. Der anschließend servierte Mittelmeerfisch “ Alla Plancha“ ( also gegrillt auf einer Metallplatte) war ebenfalls sehr gut. Das Ganze mit Wein, Wasser und Cafe für 13,50 €.
Zurück im Hotel habe auf dem Balkon des vierten Stocks in meinem Hotel einfach nur die Aussicht genossen. Das Bild ändert sich ständig. Kreutzfahrer kommen und gehen. Aber auch andere Yachten legen ab oder kehren zurück. Man entwickelt ein gewisses Gespür, es fehlt etwas oder es ist etwas dazugekommen. Und manchmal ertappt man sich bei dem Gedanken: “ Ach , da bist Du ja wieder“, wenn ein Schiff zurück kehrt.
to be continued…
Da macht ja Malle sogar wieder Spass, bei solch kultiviertem und informativem Thread und den dazugehörigen Bilder, tolle Geschichte, exzellent recherchiert. Danke!
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