Paris – 1.Advent 2009
Es regnete an diesem Sonnabend in Paris. und es zog mich wieder-wie sooft-in die Pariser Passagen. Und das, obwohl ich wußte, daß sie meistens von vielen Touristen bevölkert wurden. Die meisten der früher über 100 Passagen sind im 19.Jahrhundert entstanden und tragen so interessante Namen wie Passage de Panoramas, Passage du Grand Cerf oder Galerie Colbert.
Les Coulisses
Ursprünglich sind sie entstanden, um den Flaneuren das „Leche Vitrine“, wie der Franzose den Schaufensterbummel nennt, trockenen Fusses zu ermöglichen. Alle sind nämlich überdacht und mit einem Glasdach versehen. Zudem boten sie zur damaligen Zeit Schutz vor den kotverschmutzten und mit Kutschen bevölkerten Strassen. Es gibt viele, kleine meist zweistöckige Geschäfte, natürlich Bars und Cafés, das Hotel Chopin und das Musée Grevin mit seinem Wachsfigurenkabinett.
Musée Grevin
Es sind vor Allem die besonderen Geschäfte, wie eine Filmbuchhandlung, das Ciné Doc, oder ein Geschäft, in dem fast nur Spielzeug aus Metall verkauft wird mit kleinen Szenarien, in denen Bewegung stattfindet, wie einem Rodelberg mit automatisch laufenden Schlittenfahrern. Es gibt das Geschäft des Graveurs Stern, der noch Visitenkarten im „Papier en Tete“ also im Reliefdruck abliefert. Das hat auch heute noch in der Pariser Gesellschaft seine Bedeutung! Oder der Spazierstockhändler Ségas, der im ersten Stock seines Geschäfts schon Stöcke aus den edelsten Materialien für mehre zigtausend Euro verkauft hat.Nach seinen Aussagen „dürfen sie nie den Boden berühren“. Preis auf Anfrage.
Cannes Segas
Für mich sind es aber nicht nur die besonderen Geschäfte, die den Reiz ausmachen. Es sind Passagen in einen zeitlos wirkenden Raum. Durch die manchmal illusionär und manchmal fast surreal wirkende Atmosphäre wird man auf sich zurückgeworfen, hält inne und denkt über sich nach. Hier verirrt man, verwirrt man sich auf die angenehmste Weise, während man sich von Auslage zu Auslage bewegt, nur unterbrochen von den kurzen Ausflügen in die Aussenwelt zwischen den meist nahe beieinander liegen Passagen.
Passage
Irgenndwann betritt man wieder das moderne Paris mit seiner Lautstärke und der Hektik eines Samstags. Meistens hat es dann auch aufgehört zu regnen. Wir gingen die Rivoli östlich bis zum Sebastopol, den ein Stück hoch bis wir dann nach links in die Rue Rambuteau zu dem neuen Forum des Halles. Ich machte noch einen kleinen Abstecher in die Rue du Jour, gleich hinter der Kirche St.Eustache. Hier liegt nämlich die Boutique von der Modedesgnerin Agnes B., seit Jahren ein Lieblingsgeschäft von mir. Ein kleines Cadeaux für eine große Liebe. Agnes B. hat inzwischen viele Geschäfte in Paris, aber hier hat alles angefangen. Deswegen gehe ich hierhin und weil die Rue du Jour für mich, wenn ich- von ebenso attraktiven wie charmanten Verkäuferinnen bedient- das „Richtige“ gefunden habe, wirklich die „Strasse des Tages“ ist. Funktioniert so auch nur in Paris, nicht in Hamburg oder München.
Hotel Chopin
Aber nun mussten wir zurück ins Hotel, denn um 17.00 Uhr hatten den Termin in der Botschaft in der Av. Franklin D. Roosevelt.Und an einem Sonnabend am frühen Abend mit einer Regenwahrscheinlichkeit von 80% ist die Wahrscheinlichkeit, ein Taxi zu bekommen, am Gare du Nord recht hoch. Und unser Mercure lag ja direkt gegenüber. Die Fahrt war abenteuerlich im viel zu vollen Paris, der Fahrer aber eiskalt, ein Profi. Wir entgingen ca.zwanzig Beinahe-Unfällen, aber der topgepflegte Benz neuster Baureihe blieb ganz und wir landeten heil in der Botschaft. Wir wurden sehr nett und freundlich aufgenommen und nach einiger Zeit hatte Norbert die neuen Papiere.
Botschaft
Also hinaus und die Seine über die Pont des Invalides querend in den Bd. de Tour Maubourg und damit ins 7.th. Arrondissement . Es galt, an einem Sonnabend Abend einen Tisch in einem Restaurant zu bekommen und das, obwohl wir nicht reserviert hatten. Es gelang im „Restaurant 7 Th.“, aber erst eine Stunde später. Ein Eck-Bistro schräg gegenüber gewährte uns Unterschlupf bei dem inzwischen wieder stärker gewordenen Regen.
Beim „Ballon“ Vin blanc ließ sich noch einmal das frühabendliche Treiben beobachten:Ein schneller Pastis, ein „Ballon“ Vin rouge, ein kurzes Gespräch, ein „Au revoir a demain“,.. ja man sieht sich, spätestens morgen. Das Essen im 7.th. hinterließ dann einen zwiespältigen Eindruck. Einer sehr guten Foie gras de canard mit einem hervorragendem Chateau Coutet ( also einem Sauternes, sprich Dessertwein aus dem Bordeaux), folgte ein mässiger Loup de Mer. Den Wein dazu habe ich -wahrscheinlich aus Ärger über den Fisch- nicht mehr in Erinnerung. Das war beim letzten Mal noch deutlich besser!
Also verzichteten wir auf den Espresso und schauten nach ob sich das „Roussillon“ auch verändert hat. Dieu merci non! Dieses Bistro hat seinen Charakter erhalten: Es wird vorwiegend von Studenten aus der Provence besucht und auch der Besitzer ist Provencale. Und so hört man häufiger ein „Bieng“ statt des viel weicheren „Bien“, also den harten südfranzösischen Akzent. Auch vertraut und auch schön! Dort blieben wir noch auf den einen oder anderen Roten-naturellement aus der Provence! Und das war ein gelungener Abschluß dieses Trips nach Paris.
Roussilon
„…Vielleicht, weil einen das magische Gefühl beseelt, dass man es mit einer lebenden Kreatur zu tun hat: Die Stadt spricht mit dir, sie verrät dir auch manchmal ihre Geheimnisse, aber sie läßt dich nie ganz an sie heran. Darum langweilt man sich nie mit Paris.“
Gala Naumova
Fin
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