Paris – 1.Advent 2009
Mit dem Vorsprung von 20 Parisbesuchen ( Norbert: 2 ) plante ich einen weiteren Tag. Es sollte nach sorgfältiger Recherche doch wohl gelingen mit der Metro vom Gare du Nord zu St.Michel in St.Germain zu gelangen und vielleicht doch ein paar der Restaurants und Bistros aus dem Buch von Hella Broerkken zu besuchen. Wir holten uns jeder ein Carnet -ein Gebinde von 10 Tickets- für die Metro. Trotz der immer am Anfang bestehenden Sprachschwierigkeiten (Glatt gelogen mein Französisch kommt über das „Küchen-Französisch“ auch nach längerer Zeit nicht hinaus!) bekamen wir, was wir wollten.
- Au Parloir du Colombier
Wir begaben uns-noch fröhlich- in den Untergrund von Paris. Zwei Stationen später, auf der anderen Seite der Seine, Rive Gauche, tauchten wir- nun gar nicht mehr fröhlich und um ein Handy und eine Brieftasche mit allen Papieren erleichtert-wieder auf. Der Dümmste aller Anfängerfehler! Das Image vom erfahrenen Paris-Besucher (Ich!) war jedenfalls hin. Am Gare du Nord, Knotenpunkt und Treffpunkt vieler, die ihr Einkommen mit der Erleichterung dummer Touristen verdienen, waren wir zur Hauptverkehrszeit von ca. 15 „Suchenden“ in einen Wagen gedrängt worden. Wir standen dicht an dicht und haben den Diebstahl erst nach dem Aussteigen bemerkt. Nun zuerst das Handy sperren lassen, denn Gespräche im Ausland können ja bekanntlich ganz schön teuer werden und sind in meinem Handy-Tarif so nicht eingeplant.
Comptoir de Famille
Praktisch, wenn man kein Telefon zur Verfügung hat und das Filo mit den Telefonnummern in Hannover liegt. Jörg ( Musiker) war auf einer Probe, Petra (Dezernentin) in einer Sitzung, Thomas ( Dirigent) auf noch einer Probe und Isabel ( Rechtsanwältin) beim Gericht, wie ich von Allen später erfuhr. Mehr Nummern fielen mir aus dem Kopf nicht ein. Also riefen wir in Norberts Apotheke an und liessen das Handy von dort aus sperren. Dann machten wir noch einen Termin in der deutschen Botschaft, da Ersatzpapiere für den Rückflug erstellt werden mussten, nahmen einen kleinen Vin Blanc im nächsten Bistro und starteten neu.
Balzar 1
Zunächst also in die Rue d‘Ecole in der Nähe der Sorbonne, die von dem „Mich“, dem Boulevard St.Michel abgeht.Und dort in die Brasserie Balsar, in der schon Camus und Satre gespeist hatten. Eine typische kleine französische Brasserie mit Kellnern in bodenlangen,weißen Schürzen und dieser wunderbaren familiären und zugleich elitären Atmosphäre, die dem Gast das Gefühl gibt, etwas Besonderem beizuwohnen und dabei herzlich willkommen zu sein-wenn er sich darauf einlässt. Uns blieb diesmal nur Zeit für einen Creme Double und ein paar Fotos.
Tanakaya
Wir gingen die Ecoles wieder zurück Richtung Pl.St. Sulpice. Langsam wurde es etwas dämmerig und die „Blaue Stunde“ zwischen Tageslicht und totaler Dunkelheit begann. Jetzt fingen die Schaufenster der vielen wunderschön dekorierten Geschäfte an zu leuchten. Und dekorieren können die Pariser-gerade zur Weihnachtszeit.
Yves Saint Laurent
Jedes Fenster hat eine mehr oder minder klar definierte Aussage, eine Botschaft: Sei es eine Kleiderstange, quer durchs Fenster gezogen , auf der wie zufällig Mäntel, Jacken und Kleider drapiert sind und dieses Ensemble durch ein paar Schuhe und eine Handtasche abgerundet und dadurch perfekt wird, so dass es dazu einlädt, sich ein Kleid und einen Mantel zu nehmen-die passenden Schuhe standen ja schon da-,jetzt noch die Handtasche gegriffen und auf….. zum Essen……zum Rendezvous …….in die nächste hippe Bar!
Ours Blanc
Oder im Schaufenster ein Arrangement von Eisbären und Eisbergen, in deren Mitte eine in schwarz und weiss gewandete Schaufensterpuppe sitzt- auf den ersten Blick von einer lebenden Figur nicht zu unterscheiden-umgeben von kopflosen, ebenfalls schwarz-weiss gekleideten Schaufensterpuppen: Diktion: Schwarz und Weiss reicht, keine Farben, der Schnitt ist das Entscheidene.
Fleur
Oder das Spiel mit der Täuschung: Ein Schaufenster, das aussieht, als würde es zu einem Blumengeschäft gehören und in Wirklichkeit wesentlich mehr anbietet, nämlich Design, Parfums Objekte, Möbel und vielleicht sogar Ideen. Nur einige Beispiele…
Wir legten unseren Weg so, dass wir einige Bistros und Cafes besuchen konnten. Das „Cafe de la Mairie“ am Place St.Sulpice hat uns beeindruckt, es ist cool, dort zu sitzen und einfach nur dem Treiben zuzuschauen, wieder eine dieser Inseln in Paris, wo man problemfrei den ganzen Tag verbringen könnte, ohne sich zu langweilen. Ganz anders und dennoch genauso reizvoll das „Au Vieux Colombier“, ich würde sagen, ein klassisches Eckbistro mit einfacher aber guter Hausmannskost. Ich kann in beiden Fällen Madame Broerkken nur Recht geben. Dennoch hat uns an diesem Abend noch einmal das „Terminus Nord“ gelockt. Die Aussicht auf Austern war einfach zu verführerisch!
to be continued…
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