Paris-Juni 2010
Wir sind in einem alten Handwerkerviertel, im Quartier der Möbelhersteller,Polsterer und Restauratoren ungefähr an der Ostseite des Place de la Bastille. Hier kann man zu beiden Seiten der Rue Faubourg-Saint – Antoine zahlreiche Hinterhöfe und Passagen entdecken, die jede für sich oft eine eigene kleine Welt darstellen.
Die Rue Faubourg-Saint – Antoine war die Strasse der Aufständischen, der Revoluzzer. Im April 1789, quasi als Auslöser der Französischen Revolution vom 14. Juli, streikten hier 4000 Arbeiter einer Papiermanufaktur gegen eine Lohnkürzung. Sie setzten ihre Arbeitsstätten in Brand, worauf die Truppe eingriff und 30 erschoß. Die meisten der damals in den zahllosen Hinterhöfen arbeitenden Tischler , die ihr Holz von den Flößern am nahliegenden Quai de la Rapée erhielten, sind verschwunden. Möbelgroßhändler haben sie verdrängt.
Ein paar Restauratoren existieren noch in der Passage du Chantier. wie lange sie sich noch halten können ist unbestimmt. Aber zumindestens versorgt “ Le Manoir de Gilles“ die Ministerien von Paris seit einem Jahrhundert mit Wandteppichen!
Aber es gibt auch andere Hinterhöfe, die dem Verfall preisgegeben zu sein scheinen und zum Beispiel alte Autowerkstätten beinhalten. Es umfängt einen ein eigenartiges, morbides Flair, anziehend und abstoßend zugleich.
Auch wenn die Handwerker meist nicht mehr da sind, existieren viele ihrer Passagen zu beiden Seiten des Faubourg und benachbarter Strassen weiter, heute allerdings meist in privater Hand, mit einem Nummerncode verschlossen und damit am Wochenende unzugänglich, wie auch ich feststellen mußte. Sie tragen schöne Namen wie „Etoile d’Or“-Goldstern, „Bel-Air“-Schöne Luft oder „Boule Blanche“-Weiße Kugel und sind häufig unter Erhalt der ursprünglichen Substanz aufwendig renoviert.
Nicht vergessen werden soll die Vergnügungsstraße des Viertels, die Rue de Lappe, mit einer wechselvollen Geschichte, den Bordellen „Madame Beretta“ und „Marcelle“ und auch heute noch den “ Trains de Plaisir „, wie hier die Vermietung pro Stunde genannt wird. Das “ Monsieur Jo“ , ein Ballhaus, gibt es hier, dass ein Preisboxer gleichen Namens eröffnet hatte. Zu seinen Stammkunden gehörten der Autor Céline, Edith Piaf, Arletty oder auch Jean Gabin mit seiner Geliebten Marlene Dietrich. Heute gehört das Lokal einem anderen Preisboxer, Jacques Lageat, der das Interieur weitgehend belassen haben soll. Und auch heute sollen sich unter dem Personal noch einige „Gesuchte“ befinden. Um diese Strasse muß ich mich irgendwann einmal eingehender kümmern…
…to be continued.
Habe heute Abend wieder einmal Ihre sehr informative Seite aufgeblättert und zu meiner großen Freude festgestellt, es geht weiter mit sehr intimen Pariser Ansichten, die mich doch sehr beeindrucken und mir außergewöhnliche Freude bereiten. Das ist nach wie vor eigentlich nur Insidern oder Anwohnern vergönnt, diese Locations leben zu können (dürfen). Zum Teil phantastische Fotos und auch die anderen haben wegen ihrer morbiden Darstellung durchaus den ganz besonderen Reiz dieses Blog. Wünschenswert vielleicht noch ein oder zwei typische Gerichte, die in diesem Viertel „in“ sind, und das evtl. Verbunden mitb einem Gespräch einer(s) Einheimischen. Vielen Dank, bitte weitere Stories, wenn möglich…….. macht einfach nur Plaisir.
s.v.p. M. Bocuse
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