Paris-Juni 2010
Es gibt entlang der Rue Faubourg-Saint – Antoine oder der Rue Charonne aber auch noch eine andere Art von Hinterhöfen. Manche von ihnen sind ausgewachsene Passagen wie die Passage L’Homme oder die Cour Damoye. Sie sind wundervoll bepflanzt, man fühlt sich -mitten in Paris- wie auf einer Dorfstrasse im Burgund oder in der Provence.
Hier leben und arbeiten die Kreativen, die Intellektuellen- mal etwas „aufgestylt“ wie in „Cour Damoye“, mal verwunschen, fast ein wenig „kunstvoll verwahrlost“.
Auf einer normalen Strasse wie z.B. der Rue Charonne gehend, hat man meist nur einen kurzen , flüchtigen Einblick in diese Hinterhöfe. Wer nicht aufmerksam durch diese Strassen geht, wird sie nicht entdecken.
Manche dieser Hinterhöfe sind miteinander verbunden wie die Cours, die nach den Monaten des Jahres benannt sind und am allerersten Eingang gibt es dann ein kleines Refugium für die Concierge, die über Allem wacht- fast wie im früheren Paris.
Irgendwann landet man dann meist im „Cour Damoye“, einem exclusivem Ort der Designer, der Architekten, der Agenturen, der Ideenschmieden-kurz der Kreativen oder derer, die sich dafür halten. Für mich eine Spur zu „chic“, um noch ehrlich zu sein, aber dennoch sehenswert. Am Ende der Passage landet man dann ziemlich unvermittelt, nachdem man einen Torbogen passiert hat, auf dem sehr lauten Place de la Bastille und damit zurück im hektischen Paris.
Für mich war in diesen Tagen das “ Tartine “ mein Stammlokal, leicht vom Hotel aus zu erreichen, gut, und -wenn ich es rechtzeitig schaffte- war es auch möglich, ohne Reservierung einen Tisch zu bekommen. An einem Abend hatte ich ein „Gazpacho Andalou“ mit einer Kugel Eis aus Melone und Zitrone, das war ein mir neues,sehr fein abgestimmtes Geschmackserlebnis. Danach “ Tournedos de canard au poivre“ mit einem Roten aus Chinon, und zum Abschluß “ Ile Flottant avec Creme Caramel“. In der ganzen Zeit eine kleine Karte mit vernünftigen Preisen und gleichbleibend guter Qualität. Danach im Hotel hatte ich zum Abschluß des Tages immer noch den beindruckenden Blick über die Dächer von Paris in der Rue Rivoli mit der Gewißheit, bald wieder hier sein zu wollen.
Über den Dächern...
Fin
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